Method of and means for use in lasting moccasins



June 37- R. E. DUPLESSIS 2,034,326

METHOD OF AND MEANS FOR USE IN LASTING MOCCASINS Filed Feb. 18, 1935 6 Sheets-Sheet 1 June 22, 1937. R. E. DUPLESSIS METHOD OF AND MEANS FOR USE IN LASTING MOCCASINS Filed Feb. 18, 1935 6 Sheets-Sheet 2 LLLI June 22, 1937. R. E. DUPLESSIS METHOD OF AND MEANS FOR USE IN LASTING MOCCASINS s Shets-Sheet 3 Filed Feb. 18, 1935 June 22, 1937. R. E. DUPLESSIS 2,084,326

METHOD OF AND MEANS FOR USE IN LASTING MOCCASINS Filed Feb. 18, 1935 6 Sheets-Sheet 4 Fig.4.

June 22, 1937, R. E. DUPLESSIS 2,084,326

METHOD 0F AND MEANS FOR USE IN LASTING MOCCASINS Filed Feb. 18, 1935 6 Sheets-Sheet 5 June 22, 1937.

R. E. DUPLESSIS METHOD OF AND MEANS FOR USE IN LASTING MOCCASINS Filed Feb. 18, 1935 6 Sheets-Sheet 6 Patented June 22, 1937 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE METHOD OF AND MEANS FOR USE IN LAST- ING MOCCASINS Application February 18, 1935, Serial No. 6,931

32 Claims.

The present invention relates to methods of and means for use in manufacturing footwear and is herein illustrated in its application to the manufacture of moccasins. The term moccasin as hereinafter employed includes all types of footwear whereby the portion of the bottom of the foot from the region of the ball forwardly is provided with an integral covering the marginal portions of which extend upwardly and inwardly over the top of the forepart of the foot, such foot bottom covering being hereinafter identified as as the moccasin bottom. The moccasin bottom in some types of moccasins covers the bottom of the foot throughout its entire length and in other types the heel bottom portion is open.

Moccasin footwear includes a large variety of constructions all originating from the Indian moccasin or camp moccasin in which the moccasin bottom extends in one piece from heel to toe,

the top of the forepart of the foot being covered by a toe piece stitched to the upstanding margin of the forepart of the moccasin bottom. A common form of moccasin, sometimes called a moccasin shoe, comprises a forepart member, commonly called a "vamp, which underlies and completely covers the bottom of the forepart of the foot, and a rear part, commonly called a quarter", which is stitched to the vamp and usually extends under the foot and has its edges brought 3 into abutting relation to each other along the shank and secured together by a zigzag seam, the heel seat in most cases being prepared for heel attachment as in more common types of footwear. In modern'development of the moccasin the moccasin bottom, together with the toe piece stitched thereto, forms a lining for a moccasin the outer covering of which may be constructed similarly to the lining or it may be in the form of a different type of footwear such, for example,

as the stitchdown type wherein the forepart covers the top of the forepart of the lining and has its margin turned outwardly and secured to an extension sole. Frequently the various moccasin types of footwear have outsoles stitched thereto when they are intended for outdoor use.

. The lasting of the moccasin bottom has heretofore been performed entirely by hand; in fact, moccasin manufacturers have considered it impracticable to attempt to provide machinery for performing this operation. The lasting of moccasin bottoms by hand is performed in the stitching of the upstanding margin of the moccasin bottom to the toe piece, the hand stitcher being required to gather said upstanding margin as the stitching operation progresses about the toe end of the last thereby to shape the forepart of the moccasin to the last. It requires ability and experience to last moccasins accurately and uniformly by this method and only skillful workmen can produce a saleable product. The lasting operation is slow and consequently very expensive and as a result moccasins are high in price and cannot compete to any considerable extent with lower priced footwear.

It is an object of the present invention to provide mechanical means for use in the manufacture of moccasins, and particularly for use in lasting moccasin bottoms, in order to reduce the cost of manufacture and to promote uniformity of the product. Accordingly, the invention provides a machine for use in the manufacture of moccasins consisting of work supporting means, wipers constructed and arranged to wipe the forepart of a moccasin bottom heightwise of a last from the last bottom and inwardly over the top of the forepart of the last, and means for holding the last against heightwise movement during the heightwise movement of the wipers. In accordance with a further feature of the inven- "tion the illustrated machine is provided with a toe band constructed and arranged to move upwardly of the last from the last botttom and inwardly over the top of the last, such upward and inward movement of the toe band, in the illustrated machine, serving to rub out any wrinkles that may have formed in the forepart of the moccasin bottom incidental to the gathering of its toe end over the top of the last by the toe wipers.

After the moccasin bottom has been lasted a clamp is applied to its forepart in order to hold it in lasted position while its overlasted margin is trimmed and a toe piece is secured thereto. A suitable clamp for this purpose is disclosed in my copending application for Letters Patent Serial No. 64,911, filed February 20, 1936, which is a division of the present application.

In its application to methods of manufacturing moccasins, the present invention consists in positioning a moccasin bottom relatively to a last, gripping the margin of the forepart of the moccasin bottom, relatively moving the last and the gripping means thereby to work the forepart heightwise of the last from the last bottom and inwardly over the top of the forepart of the last and thereafter trimming the margin of the forepart. During the trimming operation the moccasin bottom is securely held on the last, for example by means of a clamp constructed and arrangedto engage the bottom and the upstanding margin of the forepart of the moccasin. The clamping device may provide also a gage for the trimming operation. If desired, the forepart of the moccasin bottom may be temporarily fastened in lasted position, for example by means of a toe-binding wire.

The above method is also applicable to the lasting of the vamps of moccasin shoes by a system which requires the vamps to be lasted in dependently of their quarters. In accordance with this system the vamp is assembled on the last by tacks driven through the bottom of the rear portion of the vamp and into the last in a manner well known and commonly employed in the manufacture of footwear such, for example. as mens slippers in which the vamp is distinct and separate from the quarter and secured only to the shoe bottom.

A further aspect of the invention comprises positioning the forepart 01' a moccasin bottom relatively to a last, positioning the last with the forepart arranged relatively thereto upright in a bed lasting machine, spreading out the toe end of the forepart upon the toe lasting wipers of the machine, yieldingly engaging said outspread margin between the wipers and a retarder, and then simultaneously lifting the toe head of the machine and advancing the toe wipers thereby stretching the forepart over the last and wiping it in over the top of the last.

These and other features and aspects of the invention will now be described with reference to the accompanying drawings and pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a view in elevation 01' a bed lasting machine embodying features of the present invention, parts of the machine not necessary for an understanding of the present invention being broken away;

Fig. 2 is a. view similar to Fig. 1 showing the upper part of the machine and a last together with the toe portion of the vamp of a moccasin shoe supported therein;

' Fig. 3 is a plan view of the machine illustrated in Figs. 1 and'2, the top plate and toe wiper mechanism at one side of the toe head being broken away in order to show underlying parts;

Fig. 4 is a detail view in elevation showing the work supporting and toe lasting means, the base of the heel-engaging member being'broken away in order to show underlying parts;

Fig. 5 is a detail view in elevation of the toe lasting devices;

Fig. 6 is a detail perspective view of the retarder assembly, certain parts being broken away in order to show more clearly other parts concealed thereby;

Fig. 7 is a perspective view of a clamping member for clamping the forepart of a moccasin bottom in lasted position;

Fig. 8 is a detail perspective view of a guard plate for protecting the last during the trimming operation, said plate being shown in position on the forepart of a last;

Fig. 9 is a plan view 01' a moccasin shoe held in lasted position on its last by the clamping device illustrated in Fig. 7 and a cutter engaged in trimming the overlasted margin of the moccasin vamp, the central portion of the moccasin shoe and last and the clamping device being broken away;

Fig. 10 is a detail plan view of the forepart of a moccasin and last with the clamp illustrated in Fig. 7 mounted thereon, the vamp having been trimmed and the trimming gage retracted and a toe piece partially stitched to the margin of the vamp, the rear portion of the clamping member being broken away;

Fig. 11 is a perspective view of the iorepart of a moccasin shoe secured in lasted position on the forepart of a last by a retaining plate;

Fig. 12 is a detail view in elevation, partly in section, showing the toe end of a moccasin shoe and last on the toe post of the lasting machine, the retaining plate illustrated in Fig. 11 being held in position by the toe wipers oi the lasting machine;

Fig. 13 is a detail plan view of the forepart of a moccasin shoe secured in lasted position on the forepart of a last by means 01' a toe binding wire, said wire being illustrated in relation tothe toe wipers of the lasting machine;

Fig. 14 is a detail view similar to Fig. 12 illustrating the toe wire in sectim between the wiping edge of the toe wipers and the overlasted margin of the toe end of the moccasin; and s Fig. 15 is a detail perspective view similar to Fig. 11 showing the moccasin vamp held in lasted position by means of a draw string illustrated in relation to the advanced toe wipers of the lasting machine.

The invention is illustrated in its application to the manufacture of moccasin shoes such, for example, as the moccasin shoe illustrated in Fig. 4 which comprises a vamp 20 which covers the bottom of the forepart of a last 22 and has its marginal portion arranged to extend upwardly about the periphery of the forepart of the last. and a quarter 24 secured to the vamp by a seam 26. The last is illustrated as a two-part last 01' a collapsible type wherein the heel part is movable heightwise thereof relatively to an upper lasted thereon in order to facilitate the removal of the last from the upper. The throat portion of the moccasin is positioned relatively to the last by tacks 28 driven through the bottom eyelet in each of the wings ll of the moccasin and into the last. Said tacks 28, in conjunction with a back seam tack 30, serve to position the vamp,

20 relatively to the forepart of the last. After the moccasin is assembled on its last and temporarily fastened thereto by tacks 28 and III the rear marginal portions of the vamp 20 at opposite sides of the last are pulled upwardly of the last. for example by hand pincers, and temporarily secured in lasted position by means of lasting tacks 32. The moccasin is now positioned in thenovel lasting machine of the present invention which, in its general organization, is similar to the machine disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 1,018,477, granted February 27, 1912, on an application of Matthias Brock. The margin 34 of the vamp 20 is outspread upon a pair of toe lasting wipers 36, and a retarder or presser foot 3!! (Fig. 6) is brought into engagement with the upper surface of the margin 34 of the vamp outspread upon said wipers and locked in said position. The operator nowsteps on a treadle .8 (Fig. 1) to lift the toe head 40 thereby to cause the toe wipers 36 to wipe the toe end of the vamp 20 from the bottom of the last upwardly of the last and during said upward movement the toe wipers 38, together with a toe-embracing band I54, are advanced in order to wipe the margin of the vamp upwardly and inwardly over the forepart of the last. During the upward and inward movements of the wipers It the presser foot as presses the margin 34 of the vamp against the wipers and retards the movement of said margin 34 over the wiping edge of the toe wipers, the grip of the presser foot and toe wipers on the margin 34 being sufiicient to insure a substantial stretching of the vamp about the forepart of the last during the upward movement of the toe head 48. The toe band I54 operates to hold the vamp 28 in lasted position while the toe lasting wipers are retracted sufiiciently to permit the insertion of a retaining member such, for example, as a toe binding wire between the wipers and the overlasfed margin of the vamp. This function of the toe band is similar to the function commonly performed by toe bands of bed lasting machines.

In addition to this function, however, the toe band I54 cooperates with the toe wipers 36 to shape the vamp 28 to the last and particularly to smooth out any wrinkles that the toe wipers fail to eliminate as the toe end of the vamp is gathered in over the top of the forepart of the last.

Referring now to Fig. 2, the last 22 with the shoe assembled thereon is positioned in the lasting machine on a toe post 42 which rests upon a support 44 which remains stationary during the heightwise movement of the toe head. In order to prevent the last 22 from collapsing during the lasting operation a shank support 46 is provided for supporting the rearward portion of the forward member of the last. As herein illustrated, the shank support 46 comprises a leather faced pad mounted on a boss 48 extending upwardly from a forward extremity 58 of a heel block 52, said heel block being secured to the upper extremity of a heel post 54. The last 22 is held in upright position upon the toe post 42 and shank support 46' by a V-shaped heel stop 56 (Fig. 3) constructed and arranged to engage opposite sides of the heel end of the moccasin. The heel stop 56 is formed integrally with a block 58 (Fig. 2), the arms of the heel stop diverging forwardly of the supported shoe from the upper extremity of the block 58. The base 68 of the block 58 is provided with a horizontal T-way (Fig. 4) extending lengthwise of the supported moccasin for engagement with a T-block or boss 62 which is arranged to extend lengthwise of the supported moccasin, said boss 62 forming the upper extremity of the heel block 52. In order to hold the heel stop 56 in engagement with the heel end of the supported shoe ratchet teeth 64 are formed in the upper face of the T-block 62 and a detent 66 is pivotally mounted between lugs 68 extending forwardly, from the base portion 68 of the block 58 and a compression spring I8 is seated in a socket in the block 58, said socket being so directed that the spring I8 bears against the detent 66 and holds vit in ratchet-engaging position. A handle I2 secured to the cross pin I4 to which the detent is secured provides a convenient means for disengaging the detent from the ratchet teeth 64 in order to permit the heel stop 56 to move away from the heel end of the supported shoe. It will be seen that the adjustment of the heel stop 56 lengthwise of the supported moccasin determines the position of the shank support 46 lengthwise of the moccasin. Preferably the heel stop is. so adjusted that the shank support engages the shoe bottom forwardly of the rear part of the last.

In order to hold the last 22 against upward movement while the toe head is raised to stretch the vamp 28 over the forepart of the last, a hold down is provided for engagement with the top of the last at the forepart and at the heel end.

As herein illustrated, said holddown comprises a. resilient arched plate I6 secured to a block I8 which, in turn, is swiveled on the free end of a holddown arm 88 slidably mounted in a bracket 82 for horizontal movement. The hub of the bracket 82 is sleeved on a post 84, thus permitting the holddown arm 88 to be swung away from the supported shoe after the lasting operation has been completed in order-to facilitate the removal of the shoe from the machine. A pin (not shown) extending radially from the post 84 and operating in a slot (not shown) in the hub of the bracket 82 positions the bracket on the post. The post 84 is slidably mounted in the machine frame and a treadle 86 (Fig. 1) is provided for moving the post downwardly in order to press the holddown plate 16 against the last 22, said treadle being connected to the post 84 by a link 88. The treadle is associated with a locking bar 88 and a pawl (not shown) for holding the treadle depressed, and a knee lever 82 is operatively connected to the pawl by a link 84 whereby a rearward movement of said knee lever operates to disengage the pawl from the locking bar thereby releasing the treadle and permitting the post 84 to be returned to its elevated position by a treadle spring 86.

In the illustrated machine, the upward movement of the vtoe head 48 whereby the forepart of the upper is stretched heightwise of the last from the last bottom is effected by actuating a double-ended treadle 98 (Fig. 1) pivoted to the base of the machine and provided with suitable connections for imparting heightwise movement to a vertically movable block I88 extending downwardly from the toe head.

Referring now to Figs. 4, 5, and 6, the illustrated retarder or presser foot 38 whereby the outspread margin 34 of the vamp is pressed against the toe wipers 36 is secured to an upstanding block I26 which is supported upon a carrier or slide I82 which, in turn, is supported upon arms I84 which are pivotally mounted at opposite sides of a block I86 secured to the top plate I88 of the toe head 48. The arms I84 are arranged for sliding engagement within grooves II8 formed in opposite sides of the slide I82 whereby said slide is movable on said arms substantially lengthwise of the supported shoe thereby permitting the presser foot 38 to move forwardly with the toe wipers 36 as the wipers are advanced to wipe the vamp 28 inover the top of the forepart of the last. When the presser assembly is in operative position, the arms I84 are held from upward movement by a latching bar II2 (Fig. 6) constructed and arranged to engage the bottom of a latch plate II 4 secured to the top plate I88. The latching bar is provided at opposite ends thereof with upstanding ears H6 and a cross pin H8 extends through holes in said ears and through similar holes provided at the free ends of each of the arms I84. In order to permit lengthwise movement of the slide I82 relatively to the arms I84 the cross pin H8 is arranged to extend through a horizontal slot I28 provided in said slide. In order to permit manual release of the latching bar I I2 when it is desired to swing the presser foot assemblyout of operative position to facilitate the removal of a lasted shoe from the machine, an arm I22 is-mounted at one end of the cross pin H8 and a downward extension of said arm is secured by a screw I24 to the latching bar H2. The latching bar is yieldingly held in latching position by a spring I25 (Fig. 4) connecting the arm I22 to the slide I02. The illustrated presser foot is positioned relatively to the toe wipers 06 and to the supported moccasin by the upstanding block I20 (Fig. 6) the under surface of which is arched in order to provide clearance for the toe end of the moccasin. Said block is provided with a stud I20 arranged to extend upwardly therefrom and slidably mounted in a hole provided in a boss I00 formed in the slide I02. In order to prevent swinging movement of the block I26 about the stud I28 the portion of the block I26 adjacent to the slide I02 is extended somewhat, as illustrated in Fig. 4, to bring it into engagement with said slide. In the illustrated organization the block I26 is manually actuated by a toggle mechanism to move the presser foot 00 downwardly into engagement with the margin 04 of the vamp outspread upon the toe wipers 06, said toggle I mechanism comprising a pair of links I02'piv- 20 otally mounted in suitable notches provided at opposite sides of the block I26, the upper ends of said links being pivoted in similar notches in 'the downwardly extending ends of a U-shaped toggle element I64 which moves heightwise of the supported moccasin with a rocker arm I06 to which it is pivoted by a cross pin I06. In order to permit manual actuation of the toggle the U- shaped toggle element I04 is provided with a handle I40 arranged to extend upwardly therefrom. The rocker arm I66 is pivotally mounted between upstanding lugs I42 in the slide I02, the free end of said rocker arm being provided with a socket I44 extending upwardly from its under surface (Fig. 4) for the reception of a short coiled spring I46 the opposite end of which is seated in a corresponding socket extending downwardly from the upper face of the slide I02. Thus it will be seen that the spring I46 receives the upward thrust of the toggle mechanism and permits a sufficient heightwise movement of the presser foot 36 to compensate for varying thicknesses of moccasin materials. In order to insure the return of the slide I02 to its normal retracted position, as shown in Fig. 4, upon releasing the presser foot 36 at the completion of the lasting operation, a coiled spring I46 is arranged substantially lengthwise of the supported shoe between a pin I50 extending laterally from the slide I02 and an upstanding pin I62 in one of the 50 arms I04.

As the toe wipers 36 are advanced to wipe the forepart of the upper over the top of the last the toe-embracing band I54 (Fig. 5) is pressed against the forepart of the upper. Said band, as

55 herein illustrated, is supported upon a carrier member I56 which positions the upper edge face of the band adjacent to the under surface of the toe wipers. The toe band moves upwardly with the toe wipers during the upward movement of the toe head 40, the work-engaging portion of said band being arranged to conform to the general heightwise curvature of the periphery of the forepart of the last. The toe band I54 is actuated by a hand lever I62 which also actuates the 65 toe wipers 36, the actuation of said lever operating to press the toe-embracing band against the toe end and side portions of the vamp 20 with sufllcient force to smooth out any wrinkles that may have been left by the wipers as the vamp 20 70 is gathered in over the top of the forepart of the last.

Referring now to Fig. 3, the actuation of the toe band I64 is effected, in part, through closing members comprising cooperating links I64 and 75 I66, hereinafter described, the links I64 being pivotally connected to a cross bar I60 which: in

turn, is connected to one end of a link I00 the opposite end of which is secured to a cross head H4. The cross head is advanced in order to actuate the toe band by connections from the toe wiper lever I62 comprising a cam block I10 (Fig. 2) carried by a toe wiper operating plunger I10 and provided on its opposite sides .with path cams I00 In which are mounted cam rolls (not shown) carried by the upper ends of bell crank levers I04 mounted on pivots I00 on the toe lasting head. At their lower ends the levers I04 are connected by links I00 (Fig. l) to the opposite sides of the cross head I14. closing links I66 are wedged toward and from the sides of the vamp 20 to close and to open the band laterally of the shoe by means comprising rolls I00 (Fig. 3) which engage the links I06 in slots I02 formed in inclined relation to the length of the links. The links I06 are connected to opposite ends of a toe band chain I60 by arms I04. said links being pivotally mounted on pins I06 carried by the arms I04 and adjustable lengthwise oi. the arms by turning thumb nuts I00 swiveled in, the ends of the arms and threaded on rods I00 the inner ends of which are connected to the pins I06. -By turning the thumb nuts I00 the arms I04 may be adjusted inwardly or outwardly independently of each other to vary and determine the pressure applied by the toe band to the vamp 20. The construction of the arms I04 and the parts mounted therein is substantially the same as inthe machine illustrated and described in United States Letters Patent No. 1,495,169, granted May 27, 1924 upon an application of Joseph Fausse, et al. The arms I04 are yieldingly held from turning about the pins I06 by means of rods 200 which are pivotally mounted at the outer ends of the arms and extend through hollow screws 202 carried by blocks 204 swiveled on the links I66. Mounted on the rods 200 between thescrews 202 and collars 206 secured to the free ends of the rods are springs 200 which are compressed by the lever I62 during that part of its advancement which occurs after the toe band I64 has. been brought into engagement with the vamp 20.- Collars 2I0 secured to the rods 200 midway between their ends engage the hollow screws 202 and limit the movement of the rods 200 forwardly of the supported moccasin. The pressure of the toe-embracing band I64 against the sides of the forepart of the vamp 20 is augmented by the pressure of springs 2I2 positioned between the free ends of the links I66 and the adjacent ends of the links I64, the ends of said springs embracing studs 2 extending from semi-circular blocks 2I6 seated in similarly shaped recesses in the links I64 and I66, respectively. In order to prevent heightwise movement of the blocks 2I6 relatively to their supporting members, semi-annular flanges are Further movement of the toe wiper lever I62v after the toe-embracing band I04 has engaged the vamp 20 causes the slots I02 in the links I66 to arrange themselves more nearly lengthwise of the supported moccasin and consequently the free The toe-band I ends of the links I85 move inwardly, compressing the springs 2I2. Asthe links I65 swing inwardly about the rolls I90 2. component movementof the hollow screws 202 forwardly of the supported 5 moccasin is produced thereby compressing the springs 208. The compression of the springs 2I2 urges the arms I94 toward each other thereby pressing the toe-embracing band I54 against the sides of the forepart of the vamp 20 while the compression ofthe springs 208 urges the inner ends of the arms I84 rearwardly oi the supported moccasin thereby pressing the central portion of the toe band I 54 against the toe end of the vamp 20. The advanced position of one side of the toe 15 hand and its operating mechanism is indicated in dotted lines in Fig. 3.

The intermediate portion of the toe band I54 is independently advanced and pressed against the toe end of the supported moccasin by the 20 actuation of the toe wiper lever through connections from the cross head I" comprising a block 286 mounted on the link I68 and provided with an upward extension 288 which is drilled to receive a horizontal rod 300 extending lengthwise 25 of the supported shoe, one end of said rod being threaded into the member I56 which supports the toe band I54 and the chain I58. A collar 302 is secured to the rod 300 to the left of the upward extension 298, as seen in Fig. 2, and a similar 80 collar 304 is secured to the rod 300 between said upward extension and the toe band I54. Mounted on the rod 300 between the upward extension 298 and the collar 304 is a spring 306 which urges the collar 302 in a direction to engage the upward extension 288. During the advancement of the toe wiper lever the toe band I54 is brought into engagement with the moccasin and as further advancement of the toe band is resisted by engagement thereof with the toe end of the supported moccasin further advancement of the toe wiper lever compresses the spring 806 thereby pressing the toe band against the toe end of the moccasin. The compression of the spring 306 and also of the springs 208 and 2I2 which press the sides of the toe hand against the sides of the vamp 20 continues until the rolls on the bell crank levers I84 come to the dwell in their respective cam paths and during the remainder of the advancing stroke of the wiper lever the compression of said springs remains unchanged. After the toe wiping operation has been completed the toe lasting wipers may be retracted to the limit afforded by the movement of the cam rolls in the dwell in their respective cam paths, such retraction of the toe wipers being suflicient to permit the insertion between the wipers and the vamp 20 of means such, for example, as a binding wire for temporarily securing the vamp in lasted position.

After the lasting operation has been completed, and while the moccasin vamp 20 is still held in lasted position by the toe-embracing band I54 and the toe wipers 36, the vamp is temporarily secured in lasted position. Referring to Figs. 11 and 12, the vamp 20 may be temporarily secured in lasted position by an upper-retaining member or plate 220 which is V-shaped in cross section and has the general curvature of the forward end of the toe piece 222 illustrated in Fig. 10. As illustrated in Fig. 12, the plate 220 is brought in against the margin of the vamp by the toe wipers 36 as they advance to wipe the vamp in over the top of the forepart of the last, said plate being so arranged that the toe wipers engage the plate substantially at the inside of the bend line. In order to secure the plate 220 temporarily to the last 22 with the margin of the vamp 20 therebetween, openings are provided therein for the reception of a plurality of tacks 224 (Fig. 11)

Figs. 13 and 14 illustrate an alternative means for retaining the vamp 20 in lasted position comprising a toe binding wire. 226 which is'manually applied to the portion of the upper adjacent to the wiping edges of the toe wipers 36, as illustrated in Fig. 14, the ends of the wire being secured in position, for example, by tacks 228.

Another alternative means for retaining the vamp 20 in lasted position is illustrated in Fig. 15 and comprises a. ligature such, for example, as a draw cord 230 which, as herein illustrated, is threaded through suitable openings 282 provided in the marginal portion of the vamp which is later trimmed off to permit the vamp 20 to receive the toe piece 222. As illustrated in Fig. 15, the opposite ends of the draw cord 230 are secured to tacks 23I.

After the vamp 20 has been lasted and temporarily secured in lastedposition, for example by one of the alternative retaining means above described, the lasted moccasin is removed from the lasting machine and a clamping device such, for example, as the device illustrated in Fig. '7, is mounted thereon. The illustrated clamping device comprises a member constructed and arranged to engage the bottom and side faces of the forepart of the last 22 and the vamp 20 thereon and a clamping arm pivoted to said forepartembracing member and arranged to press the lasted moccasin forwardly thereof into said forepart-embracing member. The forepart-embracing member comprises a base plate 234 and a plate 236 which has the general shape of the peripheral face of the forepart of the last and is cut away as indicated at 23'I and 239 to promote resiliency and to reduce the weight of said plate. The plate 236 is secured to the base plate 234 by clamping screws 238 arranged to extend through slots 240 in inturned ends 242 of legs 244 provided in the plate 236, said inturned ends 242, as herein illustrated, extending beneath the margin of the base plate 234. Thus it will be seen that the plate 236 may be adjusted to accommodate different sizes of moccasins. Mounted on the plate 236 is a gage plate 246 which, as illustrated in Fig. 9, defines a line along which the margin of the vamp is cut in order to sever the excess margin 248 from the body portion of the vamp and to provide a suitable edge face for the reception of the edge face of the toe piece 222. The gage plate 246 is mounted on brackets 250 extending forwardly from the forward end of the plate 286 and similar brackets 252 extending outwardly from opposite sides of said plate, the gage plate 246 being provided with ears 254 constructed and arranged to register with said brackets. The gage plate 246 is held on said brackets by headed pins 256 extending upwardly from said brackets, rolls 258 being pivoted on said pins for engagement within suitable slots 260 in the ears 254. The slots 260 adjacent to the toe end of the moccasin extend substantially lengthwise of the moccasin while the slots 260 adjacent to the sides of the vamp 20 diverge forwardly of the moccasin. The plate 246 has a narrow portion 262 at its toe end and similar narrow portions 264 between its ears 254 at opposite sides of the plate, said narrow portions being sumciently resilient to permit movement of the plate 246 from its operative position, as illustrated in Fig. 9, to its retracted position, as illustrated in Fig. 10. In order to 6 4 aosaeao retain the gage plate 248 in its retracted position, the diverging slots 288 at their rearward ends are provided with outward extensions 288 (Fig. 9) within which the rolls 288 are seated when the gage plate 248 is in its retracted position, engagement of said rolls in said extensions being efiected by the spring oi the plate 248 which tends to return'it to its operative position. The toe piece 222 may now be stitched to the vamp 28, 10 part of the stitching being illustrated in Fig. 10. It will be noted that the edge face 288 of the plate 288, as illustrated in Fig. 10, is parallel to the edge face 218 of the trimmed vamp and spaced therefrom sufllciently to aiford the necessary clearance for the stitch-forming instrumentalities but nevertheless close enough to the edge face 218 to serve as a gage for the formation of the outside line of the hand-sewn seam 212.

In order to press the margin of the plate 286 adjacent to its edge face 288 downwardly against the overlasted vamp 28 a resilient plate 284 (Fig. 7) is secured to the base plate 284 for engagement with the bottom-of the vamp 28, an opening being provided in the base plate for the reception of the plate 284.

the end portions of the resilient plate are passed under and around the end'portions of the base plate 284 and secured to the upper surface of said base plate, for example by rivets 288. The 30 central portion 288 of the resilient plate is normally positioned above the plane of the base plate 284 and provides a flat, resilient support which is depressed somewhat in forcing the toe clamp over the vamp 28 of the moccasin. The pressure of the resilient plate 284 against the bottom of the vamp 28 is 'sufllcient to hold the margin of the plate 288 firmly against the overlasted margin of the vamp 28, and said plate also maintains a firm contact of the gage plate I 40 248 with the overlasted margin of the vamp during the vamp-trimming operation above described. The plate 288 is drawn rearwardly of the moccasin and pressed firmly thereagainst by the 5 operation of a swinging U-shaped member 214 pivoted to upstanding lugs 218 formed in the base plate 284 at opposite sides thereof, the cross bar 218 at the rearward end of the member 214 having secured to its forward face a resilient plate 288 which is curved forwardly and upwardly of the moccasin for engagement with its heel end. The operative position of the plate 288 relatively to the moccasin Is determined by a U-shaped cross bar-282, the uprights of which are secured at their upper extremities to opposite sides of the U-shaped member 214 thereby positioning the horizontal portion of the cross bar 282 for engagement with the bottom face of the heel end of the moccasin in order to locate so the plate 288 in operative relation to the moccasin.

While the manufacture of moccasins in accordance with the present invention has been described in connection with the description of 55 the novel machine and apparatus of the present invention a more specific description of one method of manufacturing moccasins in accordance with the present invention may serve to promote a better understanding of the inven- 70 tion. It is to be understood, however, that the method to be described is merely suggestive of one way of manufacturing moccasins in accordance with the present invention and that other methods may be employed without departing 78 from the invention. In aOOOB'dflDW w th t e As herein illustrated,

method. now to be described, moccasin parts comprising a vamp 28 and a quarter 24 are assembled on the last '22 and secured in assembled position thereon by means of the back seam tack 88 and two tacks 28 at opposite sides of the throat 5 portion of themoccasin. A portion at each side of the vamp adjacent to the quarter 24 is then lasted by hand and temporarily secured in lasted position by lasting tacks 82. The moccasin on its last is then positioned upright in the bed 10 lasting machine above described and the heel stop 88 of the machine is adjusted lengthwise of the shoe, if necessary, inorder to cause the moccasin so to arrange itself relatively to the shank support 48 that said support underlies the 15 rear end of the forward portion of the collapsible last 22. The holddown 18 (Fig. 1) is then brought into engagement with the top of the last 22 and the operator depresses the treadle 88 in order to apply downward pressure to the 20 holddown, said treadle being held depressed by locking devices including the locking bar 88. The margin 84 of the vamp 28 (Fig. 4) is then outspread upon the toe wipers 88, whereupon the presser assembly is swung into its position, as 2 shown in Fig. 6, and the operator grasps the handle I48 of the toggle mechanism associated with the presser foot 88 and straightens the toggle mechanism in order to bring the presser foot firmly into engagement with the outspread 30 4 margin of the vamp, the operative position of the toggle elements being determined by the engagement of the upper toggle element I84 with the slide I82 in which position the toggle links have passed slightly beyond the dead center 35 position and consequently are yieldingly held in operative position by the spring I48 which takes the thrust of the toggle action. The operator now actuates the double-ended treadle 88 (Fig. 1) in order to lift the toe head 48 therebyto 0 cause the toe wipers 88 to move upwardly of the supported moccasin from the last bottom. During the course of the upward movement of the toe head the operator advances the toe wipers 88 thereby bringing the vamp 28 in against the 5 last 22 and gathering it in over the top of the forepart of the last while the upward movement of the toe head stretches the vamp'somewhat, the combined movements of the toe head 48 and the toe wipers 88 operating to shape the 0 vamp 28 to the forepart of thelast 22. The amount of tension imparted to the vamp 28 is, of course, determined by the degree of pressure of the presser foot 88 against the outturned margin of the vamp, said pressure being such, that 55 enough tension is imparted to the vamp 28 to insure a sufficient stretching of the vamp to shape it accurately to the forepart'of the last without danger of unduly straining the stock. While the toe wipers 88 are moving upwardly 0 and inwardly over the last bottom to gather the vamp 28 and shape it to the last the toe band I54 moves upwardly with the wipers, maintaining a position directly beneath them, and simultaneously moves inwardlyabout the last. P S- ing the vamp thereagainst and rubbing out any wrinkles that may be formed in the vamp by the wipers asthe wipers gather the vamp in over the top of the forepart of the last.

The vamp 28 is now temporarily secured in lasted position in any one of the three alternative methods hereinbefore. described. It the plate 228 illustrated in Fig. 11 is employed the toe wipers 88 are retracted slightly after completing the lasting operation in order to permit said plate 7 to be positioned between the toe wipers and the overlasted margin of the vamp, whereupon the wipers are again advanced and while held in advanced position tacks 224 are driven through openings provided in the plate 220 temporarily securing it to the last 22. If the toe wire 226 illustrated in Fig. 13 is employed to secure the vamp 20 temporarily in lasted position said wire is positioned on the upper edge face of the toe band I54 before commencing the lasting operation and after said operation has been completed the wipers are retracted sufdciently to permit their wiping edges to engage the wire and then advanced again bringing the wire into the position shown in Fig. 14, and while the toe wipers-36 remain advanced the operator pulls the wire up taut against the over-lasted margin of the vamp 20 and anchors its ends to tacks 228 (Fig. 13) provided for that purpose.

The vamp 20 having been temporarily secured in lasted position, the presser assembly is now removed from its operative position by first depressing the handle I22 (Fig. 4) of the latch member H2 in order to unlatch the same, whereupon said assembly is swung about its pivot 290 in order to leave the moccasin free to be removed from the machine after retracting the toe wipers 36 and the toe band I54. The moccasin is now positioned in the clamp illustrated in Fig. '7 and the excess margin 248 of thevamp 20 is trimmed off. If desired, a guard plate, for example the plate 292 illustrated in Fig. 8, may be positioned on the last 22 to prevent the trimming cutter 294 from injuring the last. After trimming the vamp 20 the gage plate 246 is retracted and the guard plate 292 is removed. Cement is then applied to the edge face of the vamp 20 and to the corresponding edge face of the toe piece 222 and said edge faces are brought together in a relation determined by the registration of suitable marks in the vamp and toe piece, respectively. After the cement has set the vamp and toe piece are permanently united by a handsewn seam 212 and the moccasin is then removed from the clamp. Preferably the toe piece 222 is cemented and stitched to the vamp 20 immediately after the lasting operation while the moccasin is still in temper, and the moccasin is allowed to remain on the last until it has thoroughly dried and set. After removing the moccasin from the last 22 an outsole is stitched to its bottom face.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. In a machine for use in the manufacture of moccasins, work supporting means, a toe-embracing band constructed and arranged to wipe the forepart of a moccasin bottom heightwise of the last from the last bottom and inwardly over the top of the forepart of the last, and means for holding the last against heightwise movement.

2. In a machine for use in the manufacture of moccasins, work supporting means, a toe-embracing band constructed and arranged for engagement with substantially the entire width of the upstanding margin of the forepart of the moccasin bottom, said toe band being constructed and arranged to wipe the forepart of the moccasin bottom heightwise of the last from the last bottom and inwardly over the top of the forepart of the last and to hold the forepart in lasted position while the forepart is temporarily fastened to the last.

3. In a machine for use in the manufacture of moccasins, work supporting means, lasting wipers constructed and arranged to wipe the forepart of a moccasin bottom heightwise of a last from the last bottom and inwardly over the top of the forepart of the last, and a member constructed and arranged to embrace the forepart of the moccasin bottom on its last and simultaneously to move heightwise of the last from the last bottom and inwardly over the top of the last thereby to shape the forepart of the moccasin on its last.

4. In a machine for use in the manufacture of moccasins, work supporting means, lasting wipers constructed and arranged to wipe the forepart of a moccasin bottom heightwise of a last from the last bottom and inwardly over the top of the forepart of the last, and a toe-embracing band constructed and arranged to move heightwise of the last from the last bottom and inwardly over the top of the last thereby to shape the forepart of the upstanding margin of the moccasin bottom on its last.

5. In a machine for use in the manufacture of moccasins, work supporting means, lasting wipers constructed and arranged to wipe the forepart of a moccasin bottom heightwise of a last from the last bottom and inwardly over the top of the forepart of the last, and a toe-embracing band constructed and arranged to move heightwise of the last, simultaneously with the heightwise movement of the wipers, from the last bottom and inwardly over the top of the last thereby to shape the forepart of the upstanding margin of the moccasin bottom on its last.

6. In a machine for um in the manufacture of moccasins, work supporting means, lasting wipers constructed and arranged to wipe the forepart of a moccasin bottom heightwise of a last from the last bottom and inwardly over the top of the forepart of the last, a toe-embracing band constructed and arranged to move heightwise of the last from the last bottom and inwardly over the top of the last thereby to shape the forepart of the upstanding margin of the moccasin bottom on its last, and pressing means for pressing against the top of the wipers the margin of the forepart of the moccasin bottom outspread upon said wipers.

7. In a machine for use in the manufacture of moccasins, work supporting means, lasting wipers constructed and arranged to wipe the forepart of a moccasin bottom heightwise of a last from the last bottom and inwardly over the top of the forepart of the last, a. toe-embracing band constructed and arranged to move heightwise of the last from the last bottom simultaneously with the heightwise movement of the wipers and inwardly over the top of the last thereby to shape the forepart of the upstanding margin of the moccasin bottom on its last, and a retarder arranged above the wipers for yielding engagement with the margin of the forepart of the moccasin bottom outspread upon said wipers.

8. In a machine for shaping moccasin bottoms over lasts, means for supporting a collapsible last with a moccasin bottom thereon comprising a support for the toe end of a last and a moccasin bottom thereon arranged in upright position, another support arranged beneath the last near the rearward extremity of its forward portion, and a holddown for engaging the top of the last at two points, namely at the forepart of the-last and at the top of the heel portion of the last.

9. In a machine for shaping moccasin bottoms over lasts, means for supporting a collapsible last with a moccasin bottom thereon comprising a support for the toe end of a last and a moccasin bottom thereon arranged in upright position, another support arranged beneath the last near the rearward extremity oi its iorward portion, a holddown for engaging the top of the last at two points, namely at the forepart of the last and at the top of the heel portion of the last, and a work support constructed and arranged to engage opposite sides of the heel end of the moccasin bottom in order to hold it and the last in upright position.

10. In a machine for shaping moccasin bottoms over lasts, means forsupporting a collapsible last with a moccasin bottom thereon comprising a support for the toe end 01' a last and a moccasin bottom thereon arranged in upright position, another support arranged beneath the last near the rearward extremity of its forward portion, a holddown for engaging the top of the last at two points, namely at the iorepart oi the last and at the top of the heel portion of the last, means for holding the last and the moccasin bottom thereon in upright position comprising a slide arranged for movement lengthwise of a supported last, and arms carried by the slide and arranged to engage opposite sides of the heel portion of the work.

11. In a machine for shaping moccasin bottoms over lasts, means for supporting a collapsible last with a moccasin bottom thereon comprising a toe rest for supporting in upright position the toe end of a last and the moccasin bottom thereon, a shank rest for engaging the portion of the moccasin bottom in the region of the rearward extremity of the forward portion of the last, and a heel stop constructed and arranged to receive the heel end of the last and vamp and thereby to position the last relatively to the shank rest, said heel stop being adjustable lengthwise oi the last relatively to the shank rest.

12. A machine for shaping moccasin bottoms over lasts having in combination a toe support and a shank support for supporting a last and a moccasin bottom thereon, a heel stop for holding the last in upright position, a holddown for engaging the toe and heel portions of the top of the last, gripping means for engaging the margin of the toe of the last bottom, and means for efiecting relative movement of the last and the gripping means heightwise of the last from the last bottom thereby to stretch the iorepart oi the moccasin bottom over the last.

13. A machine for shaping moccasin bottoms over lasts having in combination a toe support and a shank support for supporting a last and a moccasin bottom thereon, a heel stop for holding the last in upright position, a holddown for engaging the toe and heel portions of the top of the last, gripping means comprising toe wipers and a retarder constructed and arranged to engage the margin of the toe of the moccasin bottom therebetween, means for efl'ecting relative movement of the last and the gripping means heightwise of the last from the last bottom thereby to stretch the toe end of the moccasin bottom over the last, a toe band adjacent at all times to the under surface or the toe wipers, and means for drawing said band about the upstanding margin of the iorepart of the moccasin bottom in order to hold it in lasted position.

14. A machine for shaping moccasin bottoms over lasts having in combination a toe support and a shank support for supporting a last and a moccasin bottom thereon, a heel stop for holding the last in upright position, a holddown for engaging the toe and heel portions of the top o! the last, gripping means for engaging the margin of the iorepart ot'the moccasin bottom comprising toe wipers, a member constructed and arranged to impart yielding pressure to the margin of the forepart outspread upon said wipers, a toe head in which said wipers and member are mounted, said toe head being constructed and arranged for movement substantially heightwise 01 the supported last, and means for, effecting such heightwise movement 01' the toe head thereby to stretch the i'orepart oi the moccasin bottom heightwise of the last from the last bottom.

15. In a lasting machine, toe wipers and a member constructed and arranged to engage the margin of a iorepart outspread upon said wipers, toggle mechanism associated with said member for moving the member into and from clamping engagement with'said outspread margin, and a carrier for said wipers, said member and said toggle mechanism being constructed and arranged for movement heightwise of a shoe in the machine.

16. In a lasting machine, toe wipers and a member constructed and arranged to engage the margin of a forepart outspread upon said wipers, toggle mechanism associated with said member for moving themember to and from clamping engagement with said outspread margin, said toggle mechanism comprising a lower link pivoted to said member, an upper link, a handle for actuating the toggle mechanism, a rocker arm to which the upper toggle link is pivoted, and yielding means for receiving the upward thrust of said toggle mechanism against said rocker arm.

17. In a lasting machine, a support for the margin of a iorepart, a member constructed and arranged to engage said margin outspread upon said support, a carrier in which said member is mounted, a swinging support on which said carrier is mounted for movement lengthwise of a,

supported shoe, means for securing said swinging support against swinging movement, and means operating independently of said securing means for pressing the forepart-engaging member against said outspread margin.

18. In a lasting machine, toe wipers, a member constructed and arranged to engage the margin of a forepart outspread upon said wipers, a carrier for said member, a swinging support upon which said carrier is mounted for movement lengthwise of a supported shoe with said toe wipers, means for yieldingly urging said member forwardly of a supported shoe, and latching mechanism for holding said swinging support against swinging movement when said member is in engagement with the margin of the i'orepart.

19. In a lasting machine, toe wipers, a member constructed and arranged to engage the margin of a forepart outspread upon said wipers, a carrier for said member, a swinging support upon which said carrier is mounted for movement lengthwise or a supported shoe with said toe wipers, means for yieldingly urging said member forwardly of a supported shoe, latching mechanism for holding said swinging support against swinging movement when said member is in engagement with the margin 01' the iorepart, and toggle mechanism associated with said member for moving the member into and from engagement with said margin.

20. That method of manufacturing moccasins which consists in positioning a moccasin bottom relatively to a last, gripping the margin of the forepart oi the moccasin bottom, relatively moving the last and the gripping means thereby to work the forepart of the moccasin bottom heightwise of the last from its bottom and inwardly over the top of the forepart of the last and thereafter trimming the margin of the forepart. 21. That method of manufacturing moccasins which consists in positioning a moccasin bottom relatively to a last, wiping the toe end of the forepart of the moccasin bottom upwardly from the last bottom and inwardly over the forepart of the last, and following the wipers with a toe-embracing band thereby smoothing the forepart of the moccasin bottom upon the last.

22. That method of manufacturing moccasins which consists in positioning a moccasin bottom on a last, temporarily fastening the moccasin bottom to the last by means of a plurality of tacks, one of which is driven through the heel end of the upstanding margin of the moccasin bottom and the remainder through the sides of said upstanding margin and into the last, and wiping the forepart of the moccasin bottom heightwise of the last from the last bottom and inwardly over the top of the forepart of the last.

23. That method of manufacturing moccasins which consists in positioning the vamp of a moccasin shoe relatively to a last, lasting the rear portions of the vamp and temporarily fastening the lasted portions of the vamp to the last, positioning the partially lasted moccasin in a bed lasting machine, and working the toe end of the vamp from the bottom of the last heightwise thereof and inwardly over the toe of the last.

24. That method of manufacturing moccasins which comprises positioning a moccasin bottom on a last, positioning the last with the moccasin bottom thereon upright in a bed lasting machine, working its forepart from the bottom of the last .upwardly and inwardly over the top of the forepart of the last, and then drawing a binding 40 wire about the lasting allowance at the toe end of the moccasin and anchoring its ends to the last in order to hold the toe end in lasted position.

25. That method of manufacturing moccasins which comprises positioning a moccasin bottom on a last, .positioning the last with the moccasin bottom thereon upright in a bed lasting machine, wiping its forepart from the bottom of the last upwardly and inwardly over the top of the forepart of the last, bringing a retaining plate into position to hold the toe end of the vamp in lasted position, and securing said plate temporarily to the last. I

26. That method of manufacturing moccasins which comprises positioning a moccasin bottom on a last, positioning the last with the moccasin bottom thereon upright in a bed lasting machine, spreading out the toe end of its forepart upon the toe wipers of the machine, and wiping the forepart from the bottom of the last upwardly and inwardly over the top of the forepart of the last while simultaneously pressing the forepart against the'toe wipers, and thereby retarding the movement of the margin of the forepart relatively to the'wipers sufliciently to cause the forepart to be stretched over the last during the upward movement of the wipers.

27. That method of manufacturing moccasins mains in temper.

which comprises positioning a moccasin bottom on a last, positioning the last with the moccasin bottom thereon upright in a bed lasting machine, spreading out the toe end of its forepart upon the toe wipers of the machine, and wiping the forepart from the bottom of the last upwardly and inwardly over the top of the forepart of the last while simultaneously pressing the margin of the forepart against the toe wipers and thereby retarding the movement of the forepart relatively to the wipers sufliciently to cause the forepart to be stretched over the last during the upward movement of the wipers, and temporarily fastening the forepart in lasted position.

28. That method of manufacturing moccasins which comprises lasting a moccasin bottom, temporarily fastening its forepart to the last, positioning the lasted moccasin bottom in a clamping device constructed and arranged to engage its forepart and clamp it against the last, removing the temporary fastenings whereby the forepart was initially fastened to the last, and then trimming the forepart.

29. That method of manufacturing moccasins which comprises lasting a moccasin bottom, temporarily fastening its forepart to the last, positioning the lasted moccasin bottom in a clamping device constructed and arranged to engage its forepart and clamp it against the last, removing the temporary fastenings whereby the forepart was initially fastened to the last, positioning a last guard on the forepart of the last under the margin of the moccasin bottom, and then trimming its forepart.

30. That method of manufacturing moccasins which comprises lasting a moccasin bottom, clamping the forepart of the moccasin bottom to the last by means of a clamping device providing a cutting gage for use in trimming the forepart, and then trimming the forepart in accordance with said gage. r

31. That method of manufacturing moccasins which comprises lasting a moccasin bottom, clamping its forepart against the last by means of a clamping device provided with a cutting gage which is retractable without relaxing the clamping pressure, trimming the forepart in accordance with said gage, then retracting the gage, positioning a toe piece on thetop of the forepart of the last, and finally stitching the toe piece to the moccasin bottom while the vamp remains clamped to the last.

32. That method of manufacturing moccasins which comprises lasting a moccasin bottom, temporarily fastening its forepart to the last, positioning the lasted moccasin bottom in a clamping device constructed andarranged to engage the forepart and to provide a retractable cutting gage for use in trimming the forepart, clamping said device against the last, removing the temporary'fastenings whereby the forepart was initially fastened to the last, trimming the forepart,

retracting the cutting gage, then positioning a toe piece on the top of the forepart of the last, and then stitching the toe piece to the forepart of the moccasin bottom while the forepart re- RENE DUPLESSIS. 

